08 June 2009

Claude Maus AW09

Anthony Licuria APL Photography

Great Expectations

What can we expect from boutique Australian fashion this winter?
Claude Maus has a deft touch when it comes to androgyny. What is good for the boys in jumpers, coats and jeans translates across to the girls’ line. The winter collection takes cues from The Classics and we’re talking Charles Dickens here. There are tees that are layered and long sleeved with a kind of draping effect at the back; almost like coat tails. Another link with Victorian England is the austerity of the colours. There is a splendid tunic in a deep purple plaid that my sister-in-law called “an orphan’s tunic.” In a good way. The male version is more of the same fabric in a shirt length. There is much to do about natural fibre whether animal or vegetable; a stand out is what looks like a deconstructed vest made of kangaroo- it’s actually calf. The vest comes with a cropped soft leather tan jacket that slides on underneath. It’s a good take on the fuzzy faux fur coat that’s featured recently on New Yorkers and Parisians alike on The Sartorialist. There are dresses of panelled raw silk, which merely allude to being a dress shape and invite layering during the colder months. Another favourite was a vintage look leather skirt that would look sharp with tights and a turtleneck. Claude Maus’s collection has an ‘easy to wear’ air about it; there are loungey tracky pants which look like instant design student staples- as do the cotton jumpers with leather hoods. The coats are quite traditional, carrying a flourish or two from the classic Burberry trench in charcoal and black. Putting one on, you become aware of just how luxurious cashmere and wool is before noticing very modern tailoring that turns classics on their head.

For www.stylemelbourne.com